China
08/04/2X25
As I flew to the east I sat next to a tiny Chinese woman. For hours she sat in complete silence, not once did we swap the pleasantries of introduction with each other but I was to be confined in a small space with her for the next eleven hours of our lives. For the first two or three hours she sat eyes closed. Every three minutes or so allowing herself to fall deeper into her shallow slumber enough to almost have her head fall on my shoulder only to jolt herself awake when she felt her hair brush against me. I wanted to invite her to just do what seemingly was coming naturally, but I didn't. Eventually she found a way cat-like to curl up onto the seat. Forming an ouroborus of herself. Deep into the flight after she had gone herself, I went to go to the toilet. On the return to my seat completely bewildered by the darkness in the cabin, her small asian face called out to me From our row. We didn't talk for the rest of the flight. I imagined a life with this unknown woman, she slept.
What's the deal with aeroplane food?
It's bad.
I was unable to sleep and soon found myself blinded by the reflections of the Gobi desert when I curiously raised the blind in the now pitch dark plane. I've never seen a desert before. I've never been so far from myself before. I arrived in China some five arduous hours later. First I went to the toilet, where only the echoes of raucous retching could be heard as a middle aged man summoned some 5 gallons of spit from within with which to fill his selected urinal. An hour in the back of a taxi to the hotel. From behind the green hills and reddish clay dirt rose giant grey apartment towers. Each more depressing than the last. It was big. Already I began to miss the quaint streets of England. Now all I saw were expansive motorways and soulless condominiums. I'm sure that anyone would take the concrete box in the sky with running water and air con over the wooden house out in the countryside so benevolently awarded to them by The Party, but these buildings are ugly. After 11 sleepless hours on a plane the spacious legroom in the taxi allowed me to rest my eyes momentarily against my will. Eventually after a perilous journey through the lawless streets of Chengdu I had arrived in the hotel I'd be staying for the next 9 days. My small island was so far away, its pot-holed roads, kebab shops, manor houses, over-politeness, the certain kind of green that even the continental western europe doesn't really have. All these things were gone. Instead I was met with red walls, green tiled roofs, golden ornaments. I'd chosen to stay in an overtly Chinese looking hotel. Proper Disneyland hotel. If I was going to China I was going to do it properly. Frank the hotel manager, the only person I'd meet for the coming days who spoke more than a hello in a language I could understand. This stuttering, kind, awkward man immediately endeared himself, his hotel and his country to me. He's good at his job. One day I hope I could be as good as Frank. We ate and slept.
The following day, already having the feeling of being so far away and not wanting to impose on Frank any further, who kept telling us we were staying for an extraordinary amount of time, I set out for a starbucks. Immediately I took a wrong turn out of the hotel to the south rather than north. Usually in a European city I can get a sense of the economic reality of an area of the city. Qintai Street, constructed in the classic Chinese style of red, golds and whites with ornate roofs but clearly made of modern stucco. The street was full of shops that seemingly sold meat and panda souvenirs or jewellery. The first thing I noticed though were the stares. I knew the white population of China was small and they don't get too many tourists but surely they have TV. The elderly stare at me, the young stare at their phones. The two age groups might as well be two different races. The rugged storied faces of the elderly with their eyes firmly planted on me. Their hair wiry and faces tanned, the young pale and all seemingly wearing wigs. This wrong turn I was confronted with Chinese roads, now no longer in a car I was in danger. The bikes were incessant, on the road and pavement. There was no button to press to ask to cross a road. Instead you waited for the light to go green, then just hoped the cars would listen to it. The cars were similar to the people. When interacting with most people they first come across as a wall, then something happens and the conversation begins and they instantly become polite and patient. The vehicles were the same. If you waited the cars would never stop, if you made your intentions clear they patiently allowed you to cross. I'd never left Europe before, and never been out of England before without some kind of parent or guardian. It was beginning to set in just how far from the world I knew I'd come. I thought years of wikipedia study and anime watching would have prepared me for Asia.
The Starbucks in Kuanzhai Alley similarly to my hotel was in an old style chinese building. I was beginning to wonder if I was staying in some Potemkin Village situation. Everything was so clean and nice. The stores, though what exactly they sold wasn't always obvious, were all stocked full. Nothing I saw seemed anything like the Soviet bread lines of Communism's past, this was a land of commerce. Within an hour of walking China's streets I encountered multiple toy stores, how did little plastic toys help the plight of the worker? The people's park was raucous with the ringing of tong like objects begging for your attention to please come and eat at their restaurant. A starbucks, a Dairy Queen, toy shops, souvenirs, no one is at work.
Suddenly the streets gave way to Tianfu Square; just massive. A plaza larger than any I'd seen. A land so spatially rich that this paving slabbed monument to marxist plenty was completely empty. Mao stood tall at one end waving his magnificence over the land he liberated. Behind him the Tall colonnades of the Sichuan Technology museum before him a plaza shaped like a ying and yang and beneath this daoist floor pattern, what another mall? China, it seems, is actually the land of malls. We peered over the railing into the underground mall, back at Mao, then following his eyeline back towards the towering building opposite a giant billboard with Evangelion on it? After a translation it seemed that some kind of cosplay event would be happening in the area to do with Evangelion, I like Evangelion and it was on a day I'd be on my own, I'll have a look. Inside the mall immediately the first shop we encountered was an anime merch shop. Now, I thought there might be one of these here, a small back alley shop for nerds. This shop was clean with sheer white interiors and shelves lined with muscly bishonen. I was one of the only three men in the shop, one of those being a particularly effeminate looking guy at the counter, the rest were women. The mall continued on with more and more of these anime merch shops and lolita dress shops and starbucks and mcdonalds and KPop shops and where was China? Where was the PLA? If they have everything, why are they all so surprised to see me? The young Chinese seem to live entirely Japano-Californian lives but might just eat a bit more hotpot than others. Although these were anime shops and stuff I knew, nothing here was for me. Whenever this happens I begin to mentally spiral and think well is anything for you. Do you actually like anything or is it just a passing interest? What do I actually want?
We then had a hotpot. First time we had to order at a restaurant. They did not speak English. Eventually we got across what we wanted after a confused mix of English and Chinese. I don't think hotpot is anything special. If I'm at a restaurant why am I the one cooking? Sharing also, just give me the portion I'm supposed to eat or I will always under or over eat. The oil was too spicy to be enjoyable, the meat was just ok. Also the way I had to have things explained to me through gesticulation alone made me feel like an idiot. You really have to know mandarin to come here. As we sat in the hotel courtyard with a few Tsingtaos I grew hungry again. Not knowing what was open past 12 in the city I had a look on my Chinese only map app to find a seven eleven. Up the main road I found a Seven Eleven. I exchanged a Nihao with the only man in there. I bought a strange piece of bread with sausage in it and some corn dogs which unexpectedly the man heated for me. These were not very nice. I expected to love the food in China and the proper restaurant meals were great but they were all to share and I knew I had a lot of alone time upcoming. I had to learn how to feed myself.
I finished work at 9 o'clock on new years eve in 2023, an awkward time, it would have been much easier to just work through it but instead i was afforded the evening off. I don't really have many friends in the city apart from the couple that I live with. I mostly socialise at work which is fulfilling but sometimes those tuesday nights when you've had three days off and only left the house to get food can leave something to be desired. whatever projects I have on or anime I'm watching doesn't fill the void of human connection. I'm very comfortable with solitude, I'm used to it, however I wanted to do something. I'd managed to convince my roommates to go out, which already even though I love them both dearly, can feel awkward. Sometime near midnight they'd told me they might be going to China to see the League of Legends Mid Season Invitationals ESports event. Now, I really can't stand LoL let alone watching people play it but long being an orientalist in denial I with the new year's drunken courage invited myself on the trip. Very diplomatically I had been warned that I might have to spend a good chunk of time on my own, I've been on my own before, I know what it's like. I wanted to go to China. This was the first day in which this would happen. They had to be at the arena for 5 o'clock so we spent the early afternoon at Chunxi Road, the Oxford Street of Chengdu. More western brands and toys, none of these words are in the little red book. The one thing I'll concede to the Chinese is that their McDonald's is much better than ours. We stumbled into a Buddhist temple that was mysteriously hidden within the high luxury area of Taikoo Li. The statues I'd always thought quite gaudy in pictures in real life are really quite imposing. I'm sure it's quite well trodden ground for a western person to go so far east and be struck with awe at the religious icons of the people but it happened. Though the temple kept going, this seems to be a theme in China. Everything just keeps going. You enter a mall you think might not be that big and suddenly you're on the 6th floor. They seem to have forgotten moderation. I'm well acquainted with the way places of worship in the abrahamic religions work, this was entirely new to me. Then, LoL called. Often the death toll in any interaction I have with my friends. There was a panic in finding the place, a moment where the question of just skipping this match gave me hope that I might not have to fend for myself just yet. Eventually we found it. They both went behind the heavily policed spiked fences and I went out onto the streets. I had no plans and I was far from the city centre.
First I did a circle around the arena, not much was going on, it seemed a fairly recent development and quite cutoff so I decided just to walk back to the hotel. I didn't know how long it'd take, I didn't want to know, looking now turns out it would have been a three hour walk. I set off north up the motorway. Very quickly the road became inhospitable to pedestrians so I ducked into the nearest subway station to get a little closer to the city centre. Not wanting to get the train the whole way home I took the train north slightly and got out again. Not much had changed above ground but at least there was a pavement, until there wasn't and then I just had to follow the crowd all who seemingly did not care about the traffic and bikes trying to get past them, just staring at their phones. I can't walk at a leisurely pace on my own. I set a direction and I go. I took a long winding route around the part of the city Reddit threads had told me was the expat, youth nightlife area just looking for some English I suppose. I found it in Yulin but everywhere looked better off without me so I pressed on. Some kids were playing ping pong in their school playground and shouted "YO, WHITE BOY" at me, not sure how to react and pretty parched from the sweltering heat I gave them a big smile laughing internally but also thinking that the english I was looking for wasn't just about how obviously out of place I looked. Being lonely is one thing, being embarrassed about looking lonely is another.
I had been looking up nightlife in the city, particularly English speaking nightlife and the consensus seemed to be Yulin. The area I was now in. It seemed true, but there was a sea of Chinese faces and a cacophony of Mandarin. Having just been called out for my obvious differences to everyone else I didn't stop here. Most of the bars and things all seemed very empty anyway. It's hard to enjoy being on a street for the sake of being on a street when you have no one with which to intellectualise it. It's probably some personal perversion that my mind is a constant swirling soup of meaningless words and phrases, desperately I stir hoping that something either clever or funny rises to the top. To just be on a street in China isn't enough. I can do this on street view. Why am I here? That's why I'm writing this. Hopefully something interesting can come from my actually very uneventful time in this country. Eventually I got home and a few 10s of minutes later received a message that the other two had returned and the match mercifully ended in a 3-0 meaning it was shorter than expected, initially I thought that's a real shame for those that bought tickets to maybe only that game and didn't get a full experience but then I remembered that I wouldn't be on my own anymore so that's a good thing actually. That which serves me most is what's best I suppose.
The following day we were to go to the Chengdu Museum. It was a fine museum but I thought it'd be a museum in Chengdu, not the museum of Chengdu. My chinese history is spotty at best. I know the names and order of the dynasties depicted in EUIV and Victoria 2, understand their relationships with japan and the west in the 19th and 20th centuries, however anything older is a mystery. I chose to read Journey to the West not the Romance of the Three Kingdoms so I dunno, I was just waiting for Wukong to show up in the museum. Don't come here for the museum but if you happen to be here with a spare early afternoon, it's free so go for it I guess. When did I start writing a review?
I had bumble installed on my phone by lonely happenstance, not realising it would update my location automatically on some earlier day when sitting on the toilet I began to swipe right on some of the locals. Harmless fun I thought at the time, no one ever matches at home and it's the only game on my phone. The next few days I received two matches. When sat in a Starbucks post-museum I realised this could be an out from the loneliness of the previous evening. Shamefully I paid for Bumble premium, and frantically just started liking every girl. My intentions were actually pure, they usually are (though oft-emasculating), but I was frankly reaching desperation now. I don't suppose I'm very good at holidays. I always feel like I'm doing it wrong. Now this was the first time I was personally paying for a holiday so also I had cost to think about. Is this really the best thing I could be doing with this money right now, is this worth it, am I worth it? Paying for premium worked in a way. I certainly did get more matches, but most didn't reply or just wouldn't have a proper conversation. The other two went to MSI again. This time I just waited, I didn't really have anything to do. What do you do when you're in a country and can't speak the language? When your internet connection is metered you suddenly realise just how much you use. This is all woe is me, and what can I say despite my best efforts woe quite often is me. We found a place that evening that offered us beer. I like beer so we went in and they gave us dice and a cup. I saw this in Shenmue. The other two seemed quite happy with this simplistic dice game, I can't ever seem to enjoy these things as soon as I learn the rules and get it I feel done. Is this gluttony?
There's a big Buddah in Leshan and I wanted to see it. It's old and big. largest pre modern statue in the world. The three of us woke up early to get a train to the southern city. Chengdu East train station is huge, I can't even recall what it looks like, just "大" (that's Chinese for big, I'm so clever). I had read that Chinese train stations were more like airports so going inside there was a man with which to show my passport to. The other two got in and then when he scanned mine, red X. He then shouted something at me in Chinese. I gave him my phone to translate but he refused to not speak into his microphone as well as my phone, completely breaking the speech recognition. Suddenly the once empty queue was full of chinese people who didn’t want to queue just pushed past me, I gestured to the man to give me back my passport and left the line. Failing at the first hurdle and knowing the train departs in 20 minutes I said don't worry about it, smiled as best I could and turned away back outside. The oppressive sun beat down but also it began to rain. I didn't care so much about the Buddha anymore looking out at the city I just didn't want to be aimlessly alone anymore. I went to look for a service desk, not being able to read anything. I saw a desk with an official looking woman sitting at it and hammer and sickle emblazoned upon it. I'm not sure how the communists could help me in this situation so I didn't bother asking her. Leaving this room once again I thought: No, I don't want to accept this. Copying the chinese behind me in the earlier line I went back and showed the man my ticket on my phone, he squinted, took my passport back, typed something into his computer and then let me through, rolling his eyes as he let me go. Next I was felt up by a woman with a metal detector who was checking pockets and she tickled my abnormally large wad of cash in my pocket because I don't have a wallet. Eventually I met back up with the other two at which there was another gate. Another person to show my apparently faulty passport to. I gave it to her this time I had my ticket ready to show, red X again I smiled and showed her the ticket. Like the previous man she rolled her eyes and let me through. I was through. I had beaten the communist bureaucracy. Turns out something like an auto fill or bug changed my passport number to UNITEDKINGDOM so when they scanned it looking for a ticket there was nothing there. I'm sure I looked a laowai.
We arrived in Leshan and it was just as big. Proper 大. I didn't know anything about Leshan but I didn't know it would be like this. I had imagined, hoped, it would be some rickety old town near a giant temple on a mountain. No it was miles around concrete towers, and it was hot. A man in a taxi took us to the big buddha. Again I thought it would be a little entrance and then a track down to see the big guy, but no it was a giant plaza with absolutely no shade, a giant ticket hall and an even bigger gate. I'm sure it's my own fault for being in megacities and tourist destinations but my experience in China so far felt entirely too well trod. There was nothing to discover here. Two girls interviewed us on our opinions on the Buddha before we entered with a big camera, I have to wonder if I'm on Douyin. My answers were non committal though as I had seen nothing yet, I'd just arrived. There was a cart up a hill to a cave with some statues in it. They were nice, it was impressive how much they'd dug out from the rock. After climbing some stairs with some impressive carvings of what I had just learned were Arhats I entered a box room in which I had found something commensurate with my capacity for wonder. Towering figures of the Four Heavenly Kings and a big fat buddha at the back. This was some real minecraft stuff. The carvings got bigger and bigger and it was genuinely very impressive. There were statues in these caves of full sized humans of which I was as tall as the space between their toenail and the floor. A scale at which I am very unfamiliar but the other domestic tourists seemed to pass by after taking a few selfies. We climbed stair after stair and were treated to some wonderful vistas. Though it was obviously all quite manicured, planned and for tourists, this is what I wanted: this was some Indiana Jones stuff. The actual big buddha was like the cities of Chengdu and Leshan, too big to be impressive or interesting. Maybe it was just the crowd that wouldn't let me get close to the railing to look at it but it was of a scale so large I couldn't take in its enormity. If you ever go to see the buddha at Leshan the under advertised caves to the north are better. After we returned to Chengdu and to our hotel I began to write this, this introspection I think after what was such an enjoyable day was surprisingly sombre. One day I'd like to write something in celebration rather than commiseration. After some cajoling I managed to get the other two to accept the idea of going out-out. Only to come to realise once we were on the empty streets at 11pm it was tuesday and everything was closed.
Today was the last day of friends. Bumble was looking less and less likely to be fruitful. My now 6 matches were unresponsive or dry, I'd have to come to accept I was on my own and it could be good. I was invited to Jinli street, it was nice here. There were more white people than elsewhere. I didn't feel like I was being stared at as much. I had what I thought was takoyaki on a stick, it was more like caramelised batter. I then had real takoyaki. It wasn't very nice. A lot of the food hasn't been that great here. It tastes too sweet, or too much like plastic or is spicy beyond enjoyability. I would kill for a hash brown. Jinli road had the same rows of shops I'd seen in the other touristy places. Like a permanent carnival of people selling the same street food, the same trinkets, the same nick nacks. It was all getting quite formulaic. Once you'd seen one of these streets you'd seen them all. Same with the real streets, extremely clean pharmacies, one of the multiple convenience store brands, a shop that sells pandas and meat or a shop that sells loads of the same hotpot sauce blocks. There's so much of the same here. Restaurant after restaurant all doing hotpot. I was having a good time today no matter how similar my surroundings were. Then the other two informed me that they wanted to watch MSI, I did not care for MSI but I had nothing better to do and the adventure of looking for a place that was showing it was interesting. We came to a mall that apparently had an internet cafe in it. I had thought it'd be small but like everything else in China it was slightly bigger than it needed to be and after climbing 6 floors we came to it. They had it playing on a screen outside. Eventually we conveyed our wants and the two nerdy looking guys working. They gave us a camping chair each and we sat in the middle of the mall concourse watching on their exterior monitor. This was a boring three hours for me. I tried not to show it but I think it was probably quite obvious. It was a unique experience though. If life is to be measured in small anecdotes to be shared I had collected another.The guys working there were kind too, I don't know if we would've been given the same treatment back home or told to make an account and pay for our time at the computers inside.
Next, we had Tibetan food. I feel kind of awkward when I think about the Chinese state. I'm enjoying my time in their country but then I think about the very real persecution of minorities and their surveillance and that they take a picture of me in the shops when I buy stuff. I refused a trip to Dubai on political grounds much to the upset of my family but I turned a blind eye when it came to China. Not good really, but Chengdu has a Tibetan district and I've never had Tibetan food before. Who knows how long Tibet will be an existing culture for before it gets subsumed wholly into the Han empire. The food was yak, bread and butter. It mostly tasted like food from home with a little bit of spice but mostly flavoured with salt. I liked it. The most like home thing I'd had here. Six days in at this point I felt as though I was warming to China. Though my mandarin was still all of about 5 words I felt like I was starting to get it.
Despite being told I was to be left on my own more often from now on, perhaps they sensed my passionate want to not be, I was invited to Du Fu’s cottage. This was to be maybe my 5th park visitation in this city. In honour of a poet named Du Fu his art was carved into standing stones dotted around the pavements. Rolling hills with small cottages and pavilions. Moments of tranquillity in watching a bird catch a fish from a river. I should not judge Du Fu’s poems too harshly, his audience is so different from me and I, so different from him. One day this very thing you’re reading may be scrawled into a holographic screen on Herne Bay seafront in honour of my memory. I did not like Du Fu’s poems. They were boring and hard to find any warmth or comfort in. Though they spoke of deep feelings there was a language barrier even when translated into my own.
Today was the day. The big Evangelion day. The others had MSI that afternoon but came with me back to Tianfu Square to see what was going on. The square had hidden in plain sight from me what was essentially an otaku mall in an 8 story building opposite a giant statue of chairman Mao Zedong. The poor translation of the Baidu post about the event told me it was mostly a cosplay event. Entering the doors I was treated to a crowd of Asuka. A myriad of chinese girls dressed as a character I had an acute but what I tried to make measured fondness for. This was frankly a very sexually stimulating place to be. Even what was clearly a man in the animegao kigurumi. Girls practised their douyin dances in their Tokyo-3 school uniforms. Girls lined up outside white expansive stores at the chance of buying acrylic stands of their bishies. As I climbed upwards throughout the mall every store was otaku related. Maid outfits, cards, gachapon, figures, dolls. Everyone here starred as well. There was a stage where Chinese girls dressed as Asuka, Rei, Misato, 2B, Miku and any other myriad of cosplayers danced to Akihabara pop.
When I was eleven years old and I was discovering who I was, I seemingly hyperfocused on Japanese nerd media. I didn’t have many friends in my first year of secondary school but I had anime. It was a very confusing time for me, my parents had just divorced, puberty had begun and it manifested mostly in me gaining weight, and I was at a new school and didn’t know anyone. I did, however, have anime. My other love at the time (we don’t need to talk about Minecraft right now) was youtube. I essentially allowed youtube to teach me who I was to be at this point. Much the rage at the time or at least what feels true to say was the “Otaku Room” this maximalist consumerist den where no sign of architecture resides, only anime. Also I have a strong memory from this time of enjoying this video diary of an above average American teenage girl crying that she has to hide that she is an otaku from the world. I did not hide anything, I proudly declared myself otaku to any who may call me a weeb without any real knowledge of what the word entailed in the original. I was Otaku. I am Otaku. Now here I was in a seven story version of the otaku room filled with chinese girls who need not cry about hiding their love of anime because everywhere they looked they saw a mirror. I, on the other hand, missed when I could feel alone in my love of a billion yen industry.
Near the top of the mall was what was the most convention looking construction. A shop with walls made of glass cabinets filled with Evangelion and Dragon Ball figures. Though today was an Evangelion event here this was the first time I saw anything I could buy, only meet. On the floor was a pile of boxed figures. I’d always wanted an anime figure collection, ever since those videos 13 years ago. Now I was faced with a pile of figures so affordable. I picked up a figure of asuka in a fully clothed yet seductive pose. I took the box to the woman at the counter. Seeing how attractive the woman was I hesitated at taking the figure to her but persevered. I fumbled my way through the “ni haos” and paid with alipay but then she handed me back the box with an awkward smile. I forgot the word for bag in chinese and instead said “bag?” and made the signal of holding something with my fist. She shook her head and apologised. Now I had to find some way back to my hotel room holding a box with a big picture of a seductively posed anime girl under my arm. The shop I bought it from happened to be on the top floor.
I made my way through the crowds down on each of the world’s slowest escalators through the mall’s ever increasingly populated floors. Feeling very aware that I was the most evident Asuka-fag to walk the earth in a sea of girls dressed as the character I had just purchased a sex totem of. None of them offered themselves to me, useless femoids. Next I had to find my way onto the metro which included putting the box through the bag checking machine and holding it on the train north back to my hotel. Then I had to walk through the hotel courtyard in full view of many Chinese diners. Finally I was home safe and had secured the package.
After unboxing and proudly displaying my new figure on my rented hotel bedside table I then returned it to its packaging and hid it in my suitcase so the cleaners may not see it. I was alone and I was hungry. Not wanting McDonalds again (although secretly I always want McDonalds) I decided I would treat China like home and look for a supermarket. The Chinese are new to supermarkets and so I knew whatever I discovered would be something to behold. I had to take a train to the furthest extent out of the city I had been thus far. I began my Pilgrimage to the RT-Mart.
I thought the Buddhas were big. This was big. The supermarket stretched beyond the horizon. Underneath the supermarket people lived. This supermarket could feed a small British town for a decade. The rows and rows of incomprehensible spices. The tanks of self-serve live fish. Vegetables I have never known. Robots dancing with children. Shopping bags on tracks hanging above the store. Just wild stuff all around. With what I fed myself need not be discussed. Some processed meat and sugary green tea, not good stuff.
Today was my last day in Chengdu. From now to the end there will be an obvious difference in the writing since I'm now writing it 6 months after the fact rather than on the days themselves. This day was of so little note in exploration that it stopped me from writing anything about it. So, in the interest of finishing this I have chosen to omit this day from the chronological series of events. Don’t worry, you haven’t missed anything.
I had secured my train tickets for Chongqing. The next destination. This time I made sure to get the tickets under the right name lest I have another run-in with the Chinese authorities. It was exciting to be going somewhere so far on my own. To pack all my close worldly belongings into a suitcase and take them even further from home completely alone, in a land where I shared tongue with no one. I said goodbye to my friends and headed back to the train station. After a confusing lining procedure I managed to find my way onto the train. A two hour journey through the Sichuan countryside with a screen in front of me showing me all the benevolence and grandeur of the CCP. This was a cool experience. I allowed myself not to be concerned with the future during this train ride. I would not concern myself with worry of isolation, this was pure adventure.
Eventually on the other side in Chongqing encased in the plastic white tunnels of the sprawling station tunnels I searched for the metro. I had to get to Linjiangmen station in the heart of the city. I had booked a studio apartment to stay in though it seemed difficult to find, it didn’t have an english name and I still struggled with the A-Maps UI at this point. I arrived at the metro destination, suitcase in tow, after climbing three hills and descending two on a five minute walk. Chongqing is pretty hilly. I met my host after she came to fetch me from downstairs. She wore flip flops with hair down to her ankles. She seemed happy to see me. Fumbling between her English and my non-existent Chinese she introduced me to the room, the password to get in, and politely demanded payment. She wanted to use Ali-pay, not having a Chinese bank account disqualified me from transferring money with Ali-pay and so I gave her about 500 yuan notes. It felt pretty cool to just be throwing around notes of such a high number printed on them. Mao’s face staring at me with each note counted. She left me alone.
It’s so hot. There was a small shop underneath the apartment. I bought two large bottles of water. I immediately consumed half a litre in the lift back to the twenty-seventh floor. OH NO! I couldn’t get back into the room. That's it. I'm stuck in China. No access to my passport. I have no idea what floor she lives on. Do I just bang on doors until I find her? Giving a dui buqi every time I encounter a bewildered chinaman when a hulking sweaty gweilo darkens his door? Oh yeah, I’ve got a phone. I sheepishly messaged her to say I can’t get back in. She swiftly arrived and smiled at me. Pointed at my large bottles of water and let out an audible laugh-shriek. To this day I still don’t know what this means. I’d like to know. She was a kind woman. You could see it on her face.
I decided that my being here was a declaration to the world that from now on I would bring cessation to my lonesome wallowing and instead suck the very marrow from the bone of life from both ends. So I did what I had learned to do and chose a direction and began to walk. I walked some combination of east and north. Through the undulating streets. Chongqing had very similar shops to Chengdu. It seemed that China was a trinket economy. Just stuff. I’m sure that every shop in London is just full of things that are morally good and just to own and I’m not biased in any way. That was my impression though. Just stuff. China is so full of stuff. I came to Hongya Cave on the northern river’s bank. Its an impressive structure. After some apprehension of trying to enter I found my way in. The building is some kind of tourist mall filled with theming of different periods of Chongqing history. The same market stalls as every other market I’d traipsed through appeared here. I went up and down stairs. Just huge crowds of people making traversal all the more difficult. I’m sure I was supposed to be in awe at the spectacle on display but it was so hot I was more interested in just getting to the end. Eventually As i walked down some fabricated street a man called out to me. He said “beer, beer!” I was so sweaty and so thirsty I would love some beer. He sat me down and I saw a beautiful Chinese woman singing in front of her boyfriend who was just chaining darts, absolutely ripping through them. The kindly man who had offered me beer handed me a budweiser. Once I had paid he immediately gave me a plate of nuts and a cigarette. I tried to decline his cigarette as I had my own. Cigarettes aren’t the commodity here as I’m used to. I accepted his offer as he insisted and then upon putting it in my mouth I reached in my pocket for my lighter but he had already lit a flame in front of my face for me. Such service. Another woman came over and smiled at me and said something to me in Chinese. I looked at her sweaty and confused. She put forward a glass of some liquid. Chinese drinking is still unusual to me so the glasses they use for beer look like what we’d use for a spirit. I assumed she worked there so I thought she was giving it to me as another layer of service. I guess the idea was to get me drunk and then I’d give them yuan after yuan. I tried to take the glass and she frowned. “No, Cheers.” she said sternly. She did work there but she was the entertainment. She was going to sit down with me until I appeared clueless enough to try and take her drink from her. Instead the owner guy called her over to the microphone and told her to sing Taylor Swift. Me being western they assumed I loved Taylor Swift. I finished the cigarette, he immediately came over and gave me a second. I knew now it was useless to refuse and instead enjoyed his hospitality. It was nice to be sitting here although the other two left. Suddenly I was on my own in this place with two workers eager for my money. “Please come sing” I was asked. I actually really like karaoke. If I wasn’t so sweaty and uncomfortable I might’ve said yes. “Please, Please. Come sing, It's my life”. This was such an odd turn of phrase I felt some kind of pity for him. I relented. I didn’t know when I accepted it would cost me £5. I sang Transmission by Joy Division. The song began and the beat was slightly off than normal. Whatever chinese karaoke app this was didn’t have the rights to this song. The bass riff stirred something in this guy, “OHHH ROCKK, ROCKK ONN” he shouted. This was awkward I was so preoccupied with how I looked, why the music was wrong, the tempo wasn’t quite right, this older chinese woman was smiling at me and oh god I wanted to be a different person who could do so well in this moment, this environment that I would immediately have sex with this sleazy older woman. But no. I finished the song. Politely finished my drink and escaped saying xie xie. He asked me to come back. I said I would later. I never returned.
I was shattered. Chongqing left me wet and sticky. After finding some disgusting food in a supermarket I went back to my room. I intended to wait for the day to get cooler. Instead I found myself asleep until tomorrow morning. I slept for like sixteen hours.
What about the Bumble subplot? Well, it wasn’t going well. The day I’d spent in Chongqing had yielded no results. Chongqing women were less interested than Chengdu women and that was saying something. Having only two days left that weren’t travelling I came to accept it wasn’t going to happen. I had dreams of being a charismatic westerner, bumbling but in a charming way. I guess it's something of the passport bro dream. You don’t get any in your own country so you go somewhere where you’re seen as wealthy. I should’ve gone to Thailand really. I promise I’m not as much of an orientalist as I seem and I only have a healthy amount of yellow fever. Please believe me, it's true.
A new day in Chongqing. Time to pick a new direction. I wanted to find another one of those anime malls and I wanted to see the famous Chongqing metro system’s infrastructure on the way. I searched for one in the morning. I couldn't find one for definite but found one that seemingly was similar. These trains are crazy, you start underground and then suddenly you’re over a motorway and then you go through a building and then you’re back underground again. Why would you build a city like this? It seems really expensive but it's cool as heck. I got off the train at the station next to the famous building pass-through. I picked a direction from here and ended up climbing some underpopulated hill. The hill gave a full view of the city across the river. This country never failed to make me feel small. Eventually as I climbed the hill ever increasing in sweat I found a long staircase down.
At the foot of the staircase I seemed to have arrived at a park hidden under a motorway. The park carried signs saying: “Liziba Anti-Japanese War Memorial Park”. The park was a long stretch of green along one motorway and under the other. It boasted ruins from the final battle of the Sino-Japanese war of the 1930s and 40s. Remarkable how few people there were here. It was the most secluded I’d felt since being in this country. A wonderful place to smoke a cigarette. I continued my walk up the motorway to the next metro station. This one was up in a tall skyscraper and took me across the wide river to the northern section of the city. Here I was dropped into another large commercial area seemingly more like a European city center than I had been used to in China so far. The mall I was looking for was hidden underground but rather than the focus on anime goods the other one in Chengdu had, this one was full of Korean media or just general fashion shops. I was beginning to feel done already. It’s hard to enjoy yourself in a place when all you can think is I’m really sweaty. Also I look really different to everyone and I can’t communicate. It’s difficult to be in a situation where you feel the need to justify yourself but you couldn’t if you tried. On the return I visited the Great Hall of the People, a large old Chinese building the kind that’d be a wonder in Age of Empires 2. It was an impressive building but there was something about it that didn’t allow me to take it in. It was so far away from me emotionally that what I was seeing with my eyes was no different than a photo taken by someone else.
I went through another Chinese supermarket. This one seemed a bit rougher than the others, a bit older. Chongqing as a whole felt a bit rougher than Chengdu. The city certainly felt more lived in and less potemkin. More hostile. I stayed in the refuge of my room’s air conditioner for a while and watched the TinTin film. It’s pretty good. Night came and I thought I should really experience the cyberpunk-esque Chongqing downtown whilst I’m here. Walking through the neon lights and the high rises. The Hidden markets with plastic stools to eat on. It was all so aesthetic. It was sweet as heck. However the same feeling arose. I’m here in this present and yet I feel this experience is far from me. I’m watching my life in first person but it wouldn’t matter to anyone but myself if I was here or not. If you live your life and no one is around to see it, did it really happen? I found a McDonalds hidden deep in the bowels of a neon-clad concrete box. This hidden haven was filled with fellow white people. I considered talking to a similarly lonely looking guy. I didn’t. He was probably Russian and didn’t speak any English. Back in the night’s air I walked across a long bridge across another river. I wanted to turn and stare at the colourful blazing metropolis I was going away from but I was quickly marched along by the people behind me. There was no time to marvel. I ended up in a park on the other side. Alone I looked out at the view. In the dark. On my own.
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhäuser Gate. All those moments will be lost in time, like… sweat in chongqing. Time to die.